Blog and tutorials

Patternmaking Tutorial : How to draw a Trumpet Skirt-Part 2

How to draw a trumpet skirt with peplum That trumpet skirt is done by inserting an horizontal seamline and distribute the flares in the bottom part. As opposed to the previous one where we inserted many vertical seamlines and distributed the flares along those lines. see tuto there Same start straight skirt block lengthen the skirt if need be Join at side seam Draw the seamline. Here, we started the line lower at the back....

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Pattern Making Tutorial : How to draw a Fitted Sleeve

How to draw a fitted sleeve A fitted sleeve is a sleeve which follow the natural curve of the arm. It has a dart at elbow level to “bent” the sleeve. It is more fitted and can be very narrow at wrist. We start drawing a standard sleeve. The instructions are in a previous post, there. Draw an horizontal line at elbow level. It is necessary to determine the circumference of the sleeve at wrist...

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Patternmaking Tutorial : How to draw a Trumpet Skirt-Part 1

Patternmaking Tutorial : How to draw a Trumpet Skirt A trumpet skirt is a very fitted skirt which flares out widely either at knee level or slightly higher or lower. It is very similar to the 6 panel skirt of my previous post here We start with a skirt block with 2 darts of equal value at front and back. Place the darts where the seam will be. Lengthen the skirt if need be draw...

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How to draw the pattern of trousers with pleats

How to draw trousers with pleats We start the usual way by choosing our pant block with darts. Variation 1 On the drawing, I drafted a slant pocket which is explain in the next tutorial. We cut along the middle line and spread the two half equally by pivoting around the middle ankle point we draw straight lines. No need to keep the angle of the waist dart We draw the top of the pleat. Read more…

By coco, ago

How to draft trousers with back yoke and side pockets

How to draw trousers with back yoke and side pockets we start with our usual block first draw the waistband. 3 can width is good.  separate the waistband lengthen the front dart.  It will make the front smoother and prevent the bottom of the dart to be too pointy move the front dart towards the side. It is the pocket’s boundary.   draw the pocket line and the welt line Draw the under pocket The Read more…

By coco, ago

Patternmaking Tutorial : how to draw the legs of trousers

How to draw the legs of trousers Trousers Basic Principals : How to style the legs. We start with a basic trousers block with darts. Basic jeans block can be stylised the same way. Some observation : the  back is 4 cm wider than the front at knee and ankle level There is a center line on back and front half way. It is the crease (center) line. Every trousers blocks come with those particularities Read more…

By coco, ago

PatternMaking Tutorial: How to drawn a 6 panel skirt with flares

How to draft a 6 panel skirt with flares To make the pattern, we start with the block of the straight skirt with 2 darts we draw the yoke line, parallel to the waistline we shorten the dart so they will have the same depth as the yoke separate the yoke from the rest and shape the yoke (closing the darts) redraw the yoke’s new shape draw the panel’s lines vertical at 1/3 from the Read more…

By coco, ago

Pattern Drafting Tutorial : How to draw a cowl sleeve with gathers

How to draw a cowl sleeve with gathers the drafting of that sleeve is very easy. In the pictures, it is applied on shorts sleeves but it can be done on long sleeves too. That sleeve is very impressive and create a real statement. we first start drafting a standard block . Not too wide at the bottom First, we determine the full length and cut off what is not necessary We draw the drape Read more…

By coco, ago

Assymetric faux wrap top – pleat with the bust dart

Assymetric faux wrap top first we have to choose which block we are going to use.the top is not symmetric and we prefer to use a symmetric block. the bust dart on the right is going in the pleat across, we are left with the dart of the left side. Doing that way will give a top with some shape.If we take a dartless block, we end up with a very “flat” blouse. block full Read more…

By coco, ago

Pattern Making Tutorial : How to draft a mandarin collar

Pattern Making Tutorial : How to draft a mandarin collar   That is a very simple tutorial showing step by steps instructions on how to draft a mandarin collar. The mandarin collar is the easiest of all the collars. You just need the neckline measurement (the neckline of your block needs to be enlarged slightly to give ease and enough space to the seam allowance)   I give 3 variations to see what happens when Read more…

By coco, ago
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