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How to draw the pattern of trousers with pleats

How to draw trousers with pleats

We start the usual way by choosing our pant block with darts.

Variation 1

On the drawing, I drafted a slant pocket which is explain in the next tutorial.

We cut along the middle line and spread the two half equally by pivoting around the middle ankle point

we draw straight lines. No need to keep the angle of the waist dart

We draw the top of the pleat. In that case, we draw a knife pleat.

thats what it looks like when finished.

Next, we are going to open a bit more to make a box pleat

Variation 2

The angle is much wider, at least double because a box pleat is 2 knife pleats facing one another.

do the top of the dart. 

It looks like that.

The next variation is on opening a dart from the knee level. there is no fullness added at knee level.

Variation 3

Draw an horizontal line at knee level

We open the dart from the knee up. We pivot the pieces from the inside leg/knee and outside leg/knee intersection.

Straighten the lines

We choose that variation if we want to keep the knee narrow and give fullness from the thighs up.

we can add the fly at center front for the zip.

Here is the video of that tuto.

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