How to draw a cowl sleeve with gathers
the drafting of that sleeve is very easy. In the pictures, it is applied on shorts sleeves but it can be done on long sleeves too.
That sleeve is very impressive and create a real statement.
we first start drafting a standard block .
Not too wide at the bottom
First, we determine the full length and cut off what is not necessary
We draw the drape lines.
we can draw as many as we want.
We separate the front and back along the centre of the sleeve. We pivot the two parts to give extra volume for our cowl. the more we open, the deeper the cowl will be
develop the parts as shown by pivoting along the chosen points on the armhole.
The last part must be lined horizontally.
You might have to increase or disminish the angles at the bottom to fit the last part nicely. They dont have to touch the center front line : it doesnt matter if it overlaps and leaves a gap as long as it is not too big
we can leave it the way it is but extending vertically to insert gathers is better.
Outline the finished sleeve
the top (purple) will be sewn first matching the notches. the sides will be sewn after (turquoise blue)
seam allowances
This is so helpful I have wanted to make cowl hipped trousers but couldn’t figure out how so this has given me some idea how I can do it I think. I cannot wait to have these trousers because they don’t exist yet and are a bit like Victorian cycle trousers but with a lot of side drape and tapered ends maybe tulip hem. Anyway this is brilliant information!!
The cowl pants are different. the front and back are one piece only to create a cowl.