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Finishing a shirt : Putting a mandarin collar

Finishing a shirt : Putting a mandarin collar

That particular shirt in the pattern store there, is finished like a jacket. The collar is “sandwiched” between the shirt and facing.

As that tutorial is the following of the previous (how to sew a placket), the front facing is part of the placket. Taht finishing is much easiest than the classic finishing where the collar is half stitched on the shirt and rolled inside at the bottom along the neckline.

shirt finfishing-setting the collar1

Cut the collar X2 and interface the part which will be inside

shirt finfishing-setting the collar2

Right side together, stitch along the top part.

shirt finfishing-setting the collar3

notch along the curves to alow the seam allowance to fit nicely inside the collar

shirt finfishing-setting the collar4

turn the collar inside out (the bottom part is unstitched). UNDERSTITCH the seam so it rolls nicely.

shirt finfishing-setting the collar5

THEN, cut the part of the seam allowance.

shirt finfishing-setting the collar6

Your collar is ready to be inserted at the neckline

shirt finfishing-setting the collar7

Notice that the understitch line can’t go through the curve

shirt finfishing-setting the collar8

The right side of the collar. The undertitch line is on the other side

shirt finfishing-setting the collar9

pine the collar along the neckline

In that exemple, the collar stops at the middle front. (which is the middle of the front placket here)

shirt finfishing-setting the collar11

Inside of garment view : clip regularly along the neckline

shirt finfishing-setting the collar12

stitch the 2 layers of collar on the neckline of the shirt

shirt finfishing-setting the collar13

In that shirt, the facing is part of the placket. Stitch the back facing at shoulder lines

shirt finfishing-setting the collar14

Full facing view

shirt finfishing-setting the collar15

detail of the placket : Turn the facing inside out and pin it along the neckline. It fits and the collar is “sandwiched” between.

shirt finfishing-setting the collar16

It should be looking like that

shirt finfishing-setting the collar17

Stitch through on the existing seam (collar on neckline). Clip regularly.

shirt finfishing-setting the collar18

view on the inside of the shirt

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Turn the facing inside. The collar should “pop up”. iron and top stitch in place where necessary

 

The shirt is finished

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