How to sew a zip on Jeans or Trousers
A lot of people hesitate to make trousers because they are deterred by the assumed difficulty of sewing a zip on a pair of trousers. That zip is not placed straight on the center front, thus it is not symmetrically positioned. The only difficulty is due to the confusion between right and left side.Our brain is easily puzzled by that.
It is much easier than people think.
Here is a step by step instruction on how to do followed by a video which summarize it all.
To avoid the confusion between right and left side at patternmaking stage, I draw and cut two identical front : the right and the left both have the fly at the center front.
I will trim one of the fly later at sewing stage.
Left and right are identical
Put the two sides together right side against right side. Stitch the crotch up the beginning of the fly.
Open and iron along the center fronts.
Now we choose which side the zip will be. Right side (man’s trousers)
Or left side (woman’s trousers side)
Draw a line at 0.5 cm from the center front
fold along that line
Place the zip on that folded bit, align the edges and pin the zip ready to be stitched
The crease line on the picture below show the center front. The zip has been displaced under the fly.
Stitch the zip on that side
As the zip as been displaced under the fly, the zip and stitching line are hidden when the two center fronts join (when the trousers is closed)
The two center fronts are aligned. Cellotape to baste
Cellotape, pin on the fly. Be very careful because the left and right need to be perfectly leveled : the two sides of the zip need to match.
Turn over the fly part for easy sewing. Open the zip and sew the zip on the fly.
Both side of the zip are stitched and they are perfectly leveled
Back on the right side : the left and right are at the same level
We can draw the topstitch line for the fly boundary
Or we can stitch along the fly edge on the wrong side. Make sure we finish the curve below the zip stopper otherwise your machine needle might break
I have stitched the fly on the wrong side and left the drawn line on the right side to compare. The two methods are good. Stitching on the right side always give you the most accurate line but stitching on the wrong side guaranty a nice curve as we follow the edge of the fly to sew.
Prepare an “underfly”. the length is identical to the zip length
Place the underfly along the left side of the zip
Stitch the underfly through the left side of the zip
Stitch the underfly to the fly in the bottom corner on the small bit left after stitching
It is finished
I haven’t given any instruction for the parts to overlock.
After watching that tutorial, it is becoming obvious which part to overlock. The crotch, the fly and the underfly. Those parts can be bordered with biais to give a better finishing affect. All the other parts don’t need overlocking as they are covered with other things.
Leave a comment if you are still confused or if everything seems clear now.