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Tutorial : How to apply neckline facing on a top

How to apply full facing at neckline

 

Most of the instructions on facings are for separate, small facing. The neckline facing will be following the neckline on a 5 cm thickness. Another facing will be done for each armholes. Giving a pattern similar to that:

pattern for facing1
bodice with facings. Neckline and armholes facings

 

 

There is another way : Drafting a unique facing piece for the front and another one for the back. See the following drawing :

pattern for facing 2

 

The facings cover the neckline and armhole all together. Make sure that the front facing goes around the bust apex so the facing doesn’t “crush” the chest. That facing can be reduced for 2 mm all along to make it slightly smaller that the bodice. There will still be a good result if facing and bodice are totally equal.

It is easy to draft on paper but it is rather tricky to sew.

How to sew a unique facing on a bodice

front cowl top
Front cowl cut on biais

back cowl top
back cowl cut on the grain

front and back facing
back and front facings are interfaced on the wrong side

front and back facing together
front and back facing stitched at shoulder seam

front and back bodice together
Join back and front at shoulder seams

facing at neckline
Stitch facing and bodice together along neckline

facing on neckline
Turn facing outside in after understitch the neckline

biais at facing
biais can be inserted: stitch it on stitching line on facing, right side

biais at facing neckline-detail
detail of biais insertion at armhole

facing at armhole 2
Preparation for armhole stitching. both layers flat against each other

armhole stitching
join with a pin at underarm right side facing each other. the stitching will start there and finish inside towards the shoulder
 Repeat 4 times : front left, front right, back left and back right. The armhole is now closed and can be understitched the same way : start by the underarm and try to go as close as possible to the shoulder.

 

Here is the result :

bias insert at armhole

Tutorial : How to apply neckline facing on a top

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