that waistcoat is the illustration of facing used as a trim.
The facing is on the outside of the garment instead of the inside and it look real good.
I took the same basic pattern as for the previous waistcoat.
I kept the same armholes, same length and size. I removed the peplum, lowered the neckline, removed the zip and add middle front zigzag closure where buttonholes will be in each tooth.
I maybe overused the facing and tried to put it evertywhere (sides, center, armhole and bottom). It is never too much when it looks good. And I can show different uses of the same technique in only one post.
And it is how to make it : step by step tutorial
Click on the image for enlargements.
The facing and very light interfacing with fusing side on the outside.
cut with right side of facing against non sticky side of fusing. the pattern is for the sides of the waistcoat
place the other facings we use for the pattern. In my case, I have facing for armhole, front and side.
All the facings have been cut. right side of the fabric against non sticky part offusing.
stitch the inside of the facing (the side which is not inserted in the seam)
turn outside in. The fusing is treated like an independant piece of fabric.
press open the seam. the fusing seam allowance will be stuck on the fusing. be careful when ironing not to trespass on the seam allowance.
now finish turning outside in and press the whole facing starting by the folded seam allowance
the straps are now ready to be placed on the back
pin them along the edge of side seam. topstitch the other side of strap
same on the front, now front and back can be stitched on the side
view from the right side
view from the wrong side (inside)
now we do the same thing for the bottom edge of the waistcoat: align the front and back: fabric and fusing in the same way
detail on how to sew the sides
facing and interfacing are identical: the can now be sewn together right side againts right side. they are sewn on their upper part
similarly as the side facing above, the facing and interfacing are turned inside out and….
understitched and ironed: now it is solid and stable
on the inside, stitch the facing.
turn it up on the right side ready to be stitched in place along the upper edge
same with the front and back neckline facing. the preparation is the same and the process is the same
result of the finished facing
facing stitched on the outer edge on the inside ( the armhole facing can be done too as it follows the same process)
same with front view
view on the right side. the front facing has been clipped so it can be turned inside out properly
nearly finished. the facing is in place and can be topstitched
but before doing that, I would recommend that you use a little piece of interfacing to give extra thickness on buttonhole/button